Day 3 ended at Bridge of Orchy, and by that point I’d found my rhythm on the trail, feeling comfortable with the daily routine of walking, eating, and setting up camp.
I’d been proper swarmed by midgies the night before, but even that hadn’t dented the sense of momentum. Passing Tyndrum earlier on Day 3 had been a real milestone because that’s where my last attempt ended. That earlier trip was out of season, late March, and we woke up to snow that morning before deciding to head home. Pushing beyond that point this time felt like a big win and a real motivator. What lay ahead on Day 4, though, was something else entirely.
This is where the West Highland Way starts to feel properly wild. Leaving the relative comfort of Bridge of Orchy, the path opens out and climbs onto Rannoch Moor. The landscape becomes wider and more exposed, and the sense of space is immediate. There’s very little shelter out here, and once you commit to the crossing, you’re in it until the far side.
As the day moves on and you approach Glencoe, the scenery changes again. The scale of it catches your eye and doesn’t let go. The Three Sisters dominate the view, and no matter how long you’ve been walking, you keep stopping to look. It’s one of those places that makes you feel lucky just to be passing through, aware that this stretch of the trail is something special.
I set off this morning walking at the same pace as the English guy, Adam, and his friend from California, Shaddus, who I’d met the day before. What started as a brief chat on Day 3 turned into a full day on the trail together. We’d cross the moor, climb through Glencoe, tackle the Devil’s Staircase, and eventually descend all the way into Kinlochleven as a group.
At around 21 miles, this was one of the longer days of the walk, but it never felt like a grind. It asked more from the legs than the head. There were big climbs, long exposed sections, and a steep descent at the end, yet with clear weather and the best scenery of the entire route unfolding in front of us, the miles passed easily. I was tired by the end of it, but it had been a cracking day.
🗺️ The Route
- Start: Bridge of Orchy
- Finish: Kinlochleven
- Distance: ~34 km / 21 miles
- Terrain: Old military road across Rannoch Moor; remote, exposed and often boggy; steep climb up the Devil’s Staircase; long descent into Kinlochleven.
- Steps: ~50,000 (approx. with elevation)
Notes: This stretch is often split into two days on a 7‑ or 8‑day itinerary, with many walkers stopping at Kingshouse or the Glencoe Ski Centre. On a 5‑day schedule it makes for a very long day with significant climbs and little shelter.
🚶 My WHW Day 4
I packed up quickly and got moving without much fuss. A few midgies were still hanging about, but nothing like the night before. I took a couple of photos around Bridge of Orchy, then headed on. If you want a slower start, the Bridge of Orchy Hotel opens from 8am and does breakfast.
I naturally fell in step with Adam and Shaddus, who I’d met the day before. One of the best parts of hiking solo is how unpredictable the social side can be. Some days you barely speak to anyone, other days you fall into a rhythm with people straight away. I really appreciated the company. They were both experienced hikers, strong walkers, and like me, aiming to complete the West Highland Way in five days.
The landscape opens up fast. Wide, empty, and exposed in every direction. The weather was forgiving, a typical Scottish cloudy day with the odd bit of light rain. Later in the day, the skies cleared, giving us stunning views across Glencoe and beyond. What really stands out is the scale. The West Highland Way stretches out ahead for miles, the route obvious, leaving nothing to do except follow it and keep moving.
The track rolls steadily across the moor, flanked by low hills, boggy ground, and long stretches of heather. It’s straightforward walking, the kind where you settle in and let the miles tick by.
We passed the Inveroran Hotel and the old Telford Parliamentary Road, but we didn’t even consider stopping as Kingshouse was the target, and having that fixed point ahead gave the day a simple structure. Warmth, shelter, and proper food become a real motivator as the miles add up. We were definitely looking forward to it.
We kept a steady pace and didn’t linger much. The quiet was constant, broken only by wind and the sound of boots on gravel. Proper quiet.
The miles passed easily. This stretch could be brutal in bad weather, especially with heavy rain. There’s nowhere to hide out here, and in poor conditions it would quickly turn into a slow, draining slog. Cloud lifting at times, light wind, and long views ahead made it a good crossing for us.
As Glencoe came into view, the feel of the day shifted. The openness of the moor gave way to heavier ground and rising shapes ahead, and without really thinking about it, your attention is pulled back into the landscape.
Not long after, as we came through the roundabout heading into Glencoe, a group of classic cars rolled past. This was near the A82 road crossing by Glencoe Ski Centre. I grabbed a few photos as they went by, one of those small moments that ends up sticking with you.
The Glencoe Ski Centre sits just off the route here and is an option if you need toilets or a quick café stop, but we carried on. Kingshouse is directly on the trail and made far more sense as our main stop, so that was always the plan.
The final stretch into Kingshouse is an easy walk alongside the road, with the mountains closing in around you. It’s a classic West Highland Way stop, warm food, cold drinks, and somewhere to sit down. We stayed about an hour, long enough to refuel without stiffening up. I had a steak sandwich and a glass of coke for the sugar boost.
Refilled and rested, we shouldered packs again and left Kingshouse behind. From here, it’s almost impossible not to stop for photos. Almost every turn gives you another angle worth capturing, and you quickly realise this is one of those stretches where the camera never really goes away. Before long, the next objective comes into view: the Devil’s Staircase.
Despite the name, the Devil’s Staircase isn’t a staircase at all, just a steady zigzag that gains height quickly. It’s a proper climb, but never technical. As you work your way up, the views keep opening out behind you, with Glencoe stretching away below. Every turn offers a slightly better angle, and I stopped often for photos.
Reaching the top feels like a real turning point. Looking north, you can see the line of the trail stretching ahead, with Ben Nevis faint in the distance on a clear day. Turning back gives a full view down into Glencoe and the ground you’ve just climbed out of.
The Devil’s Staircase has a reputation for being tough, but I didn’t find it as bad as expected. Being able to see the route laid out in front of you makes a big difference. Taken steadily, it feels far more rewarding than intimidating.
From here, the long descent into Kinlochleven drops away beneath you. The path drops steeply at first, then settles into a long, knee-testing descent on loose stone and track. It’s hard on the legs, but knowing you’re close to a proper checkpoint makes it easier to manage. By the time we reached the outskirts of the village, my legs were feeling it properly.
We walked into Kinlochleven together and headed straight to Blackwater Hostel & Campsite. Adam and Shaddus already had their spot booked, and I was incredibly lucky that they had one more pitch available when we arrived. It felt like perfect timing. The first thing I did was get the tent up and head straight for the showers. I’d been chafing badly for most of the afternoon and just needed a shower, it had been 4 days of walking without one!
Once I was back in the tent, that was me done. I lay there for a couple of hours, legs pulsing and stinging, trying to settle. It took a while, but eventually everything eased off and I drifted off into a solid sleep. One of the guys invited me out for food later on, but I couldn’t move.
🥾 Trail Notes – Day 4
Rannoch Moor crossing:
The walking itself is straightforward, mostly on old military road, but it goes on for miles. You can see the West Highland Way stretching ahead, which makes it mentally easier. Most walkers push straight through toward Kingshouse rather than stopping here.
Food & supplies on this section:
There are no honesty boxes that I’m aware of between Bridge of Orchy and Kinlochleven, so you’ll want snacks or trail food in your pack. Having a few bars or something easy to eat makes a big difference on the moor. Food to go is available at Kingshouse or the Glencoe Ski Centre if needed.
Glencoe Ski Centre:
Sits just off the route and is a useful checkpoint. Toilets, hot drinks, and food if you need it. Easy to skip, but good to know it’s there.
Kingshouse:
One of the most reliable stops on the whole trail. Warm food, cold drinks, and somewhere to properly sit down. An hour here felt about right. Long enough to refuel and rest without letting the legs stiffen. This is the last guaranteed hot meal before Kinlochleven.
Devil’s Staircase:
Has a reputation, but it’s a steady zigzag climb rather than anything technical. You can see the full route ahead, which helps mentally. The descent into Kinlochleven is long and hard on the knees, especially late in the day. This is also a very popular area in its own right, with people visiting Glencoe for day hikes and climbs, so expect to see more foot traffic here than on quieter WHW sections, especially in summer.
⛺ Wild Camping Notes – Day 4
Rannoch Moor:
Wild camping is easy to find but hard to get right. It’s fully exposed, and wind can turn a calm-looking spot into a noisy, restless night. Wind matters more than ground here. Pick your pitch carefully and respect the forecast. The Inveroran Hotel sits directly on the route and is a solid fallback option if the weather turns or you decide an indoor night makes more sense.
Glencoe:
Camping high in Glencoe can be incredible for views, especially overlooking the Three Sisters, but conditions play a massive role. Only attempt if the forecast is calm. From experience, this area gave me one of the worst nights’ sleep I’ve had wild camping due to wind alone. Even low ground can be unsettled here, even with earplugs.
After the Devil’s Staircase:
Once you’re over the top, there are plenty of opportunities to pitch, including spots with views back across Glencoe. Wind exposure is still the main thing to watch, but the terrain makes it easier to tuck in slightly if you’re patient. Leave no trace and be mindful of how visible some of these locations are.
Kinlochleven:
Wild camping on the outskirts is possible, but after a long day this is one place where official sites really earn their keep. Kinlochleven is the only proper town on this stretch, with shops, food, and everything you need, especially a much-needed shower. Blackwater Hostel & Campsite is the first site you reach walking into the village, while MacDonald Hotel & Cabins sits slightly further on. Booking ahead in summer is a good idea.
Midges:
Surprisingly manageable during the day, likely due to breeze and elevation, but they returned at the campsite. Nowhere near as bad as Bridge of Orchy, but still annoying enough to matter. If you’re planning this section, come prepared: Smidge spray, a midge head net are essentials. For more tips, check out my other post: How to Defend Against Midges While Hiking
💭 Final Thoughts
Day 4 was everything I’d hoped it would be. Big landscapes, big climbs, and the kind of scenery that reminds you why the West Highland Way is so special. Crossing Rannoch Moor and walking into Glencoe felt like a real shift, not just in terrain, but in the overall feel of the journey. This was the Highlands in full view, and it didn’t disappoint.
Sharing the day with good company made the miles pass easily, even with the long climbs and the tough descent into Kinlochleven. By the time I was lying in the tent that night, legs pulsing but finally settling, I felt properly earned out in the best way.
With only half a day left to go, Day 5 would be about finishing the job. One last push through Glen Nevis, and finally into Fort William!
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