My WHW Day 1 ended late. Really late. I’d pushed on past Rowardennan to get out of the Camping Management Zone and eventually pitched near Rowchoish sometime around midnight. It was a big first day, 28 miles, over 75,000 steps, and a proper introduction to what a five day West Highland Way actually feels like.
So Day 2 had to be steadier. At least that was the plan.
I woke up feeling surprisingly good. No alarm, no rush. I lay there for a bit listening to the loch, made a coffee, and broke camp just after 10am. The only real thought in my head was simple, just crack on, let’s do this.
This stage of the WHW runs from just north of Rowardennan, along the eastern shore of Loch Lomond, eventually reaching Inverarnan and then pushing slightly beyond into the Strathfillan valley. On paper it doesn’t look huge, but anyone who’s walked the low route along Loch Lomond knows what’s coming.
On a more typical seven or eight day itinerary, many walkers won’t reach this section until Day 3.
The West Highland Way is Scotland’s most famous long-distance trail, starting just outside Glasgow in Milngavie and running all the way to Fort William at the foot of Ben Nevis. It eases you in gently at first, but by the time you reach Loch Lomond, the character of the walk starts to change.
This section runs from just beyond Rowardennan to a few miles past Inverarnan, following the eastern shore of Loch Lomond for much of the day. On a more typical seven or eight day itinerary, many walkers won’t reach this stretch until Day 3. I was walking the full route over five days, so my days were longer and more compressed.
While the distance here doesn’t look huge on paper, the terrain makes it one of the slower and more demanding parts of the trail. It’s a section that rewards patience, and once you’re through the rough lochside paths, the walking finally begins to ease and the Highlands start to open up.
🗺️ The Route
- Start: Rowchoish Bothy (north of Rowardennan)
- Finish: Beyond Inverarnan (Strathfillan valley, before Crianlarich)
- Distance: ~23 km / 14–15 miles
- Terrain: Rough lochside trail to Inverarnan, then riverside tracks and farmland into Strathfillan
- Steps: ~38,000
The Loch Lomond section is relentless. It’s not steep in a dramatic way, but it never settles. You go up, then down. Over roots, over rocks, skirting the water, climbing away from it again. Your pace drops without you really noticing, and your estimates for when you’ll reach the next stop slowly drift out of sync with reality.
It’s beautiful, but it demands your attention the whole way.
When walking longer trails, I still like carrying a paper map as a backup. I used the West Highland Way Route map, which covers the full trail and is easy to follow offline, whether you’re stopped for lunch or sitting in the tent at night.
🚶 My WHW Day 2
I was packed and moving by about 10:15am. Not early, but intentional. I’d earned the slower morning after Day 1, and mentally it helped. I reflected a bit on just how far I’d already come, and how different this attempt felt compared to the year before. I was already quietly pleased with the pace I’d set.
Not long after setting off I met a guy from Glasgow packing up his tent. He was starting his Day 3. When he realised I was already a day ahead of him he looked surprised. We had a quick chat, wished each other well, and moved on. It’s never a race, but those moments do quietly reinforce how hard you’re pushing.
Breakfast was a simple cheese roll I’d picked up from the honesty box beyond Rowardennan the night before. Nothing fancy, but it did the job and gave me some calories to burn off. Nae bad, considering where I was.
Within an hour I reached the Inversnaid Hotel. Seeing civilisation always gives you a boost, even if you don’t stop long. That building brought back memories of my failed WHW attempt the year before, when we stayed there on night four. Passing it before lunchtime on Day 2 this time felt like a small psychological win.
Beyond Inversnaid the wild camping options really open up. There are loads of great spots tucked just off the trail, and for anyone doing a more relaxed itinerary this is an excellent place to stop for the night.
There are some bothies and shelters dotted along the WHW. Here, you’ll pass Rowchoish Bothy, which I’ve stopped in before on my previous attempt at this trail. Last time it gave us (I was with others) a place to dry off, cook some food, and take a proper break from the weather. I was just passing through this time, snapping a couple of photos, scribbling a note in the journal, and moving on.
You could easily spend the night in this bothy if you wanted to, and it would definitely add to the experience. It’s particularly popular in poor weather or late in the day, so expect company.
Eventually the rough lochside path eases, and the walking becomes noticeably kinder. Woodland, smoother tracks, and a sense that you’re being given a break.
That break arrives properly at Ben Glas Campsite.
Ben Glas is a brilliant stop. It’s growing year on year, and for good reason. There’s camping, wooden huts, a small shop, a bar, and proper hot food. There’s also another pub across the road, but honestly, once you sit down here, the motivation to walk anywhere else disappears.
I didn’t overthink it. Fish and chips and a beer. Exactly what I’d been craving. It was about 5pm, and I could feel the previous day catching up with me. I knew I didn’t want to push too far, so after a decent rest I moved on, aiming to camp within the hour.
I found a reasonable spot not too far beyond Inverarnan. The only downside was the proximity to the road and railway, you could hear both in the distance, but after the day I’d had, it didn’t matter much.
Tent up before 7pm felt like a luxury. I had a Loch Lomond beer to mark the section I’d just conquered, then crawled into the sleeping bag and was out not long after.
Day 2 done.
🥾 Trail Notes – Day 2
This is one of the slowest sections of the West Highland Way, even though the distance doesn’t look intimidating. The lochside path is uneven, rocky, and constantly rolling, so mileage estimates can easily slip.
Lighter gear really pays off here. The constant ups and downs along the loch make a heavy pack feel far worse than the numbers suggest.
Expect your pace to drop naturally. It’s not a fitness issue, it’s just the terrain.
You don’t need to carry days worth of food. Carrying enough for a day at a time is usually more than alright on the WHW. A small, reliable stove setup is more than enough for this trail, especially if all you want is a quick coffee in the morning or a simple hot meal at camp.
I used a compact titanium stove paired with a small gas canister, nothing fancy, just dependable and easy to pack.
Ben Glas is an ideal place to properly eat, rest, and reset. Even a short stop there makes a big difference to how the rest of the day feels.
Even though this was a steadier day on paper, the lochside terrain shows how quickly plans can slip. If you’re walking the WHW over five or six days, a buffer day gives you options if one section takes more out of you than expected.
Midges weren’t a big issue for me on this section, but they’re very seasonal. In warmer, still conditions later in summer they can be much worse.
⛺ Wild Camping Notes
North of Rowardennan: Options are limited at first, but workable if you’re willing to push on later into the evening.
Inversnaid area: Excellent wild camping spots with good shelter, though this area is very popular in peak season.
Between Inversnaid and Inverarnan: Plenty of sheltered pitches just off the trail, making this one of the easier sections for wild camping.
Near Inverarnan: Terrain becomes easier, but you’re closer to the road and railway, so expect more background noise.
Wild camping rules around Loch Lomond vary by season and location, so it’s worth checking the latest Camping Management Zone boundaries before setting out.
💭 Final Thoughts
Day 2 is deceptive. It looks shorter on paper, but it’s physically demanding in a completely different way. The Loch Lomond low route asks for constant balance and focus, and it quietly wears you down mile by mile. The reward comes once you’re through it, the trail opens up, your confidence grows, and the Highlands start to feel properly close.
Two days in, I felt settled. Tired, yes, but fully in the rhythm of the walk. With the hardest lochside section behind me, it finally felt like the journey north was properly underway.
On Day 3, I leave Loch Lomond behind and head into wider glens, passing my previous stopping point at Tyndrum. It’s an easier walking day, marked by good food, unexpected trail encounters, and a brutal lesson in midges at Bridge of Orchy.
Read Day 3 here → Link
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