West Highland Way series · 96 miles in 5 days
Day 4 ended in Kinlochleven, lying in the tent with my legs pulsing. That night it took me two hours to get to sleep because of my legs. But in the morning I seemed fine, and I packed up easy.
Day 5 is the last and shortest day on a five-day schedule, about 15 miles from Kinlochleven to Fort William. For the whole day the motivation was easier. There was only one major checkpoint left, the finish line in Fort William, and the easiest way to get home was now just going forward, even if you wanted to quit.
The Route
- Start: Kinlochleven
- Finish: Gordon Square, Fort William
- Distance: ~24 km / 15 miles (guides vary between 14 and 15)
- Terrain: a steep wooded climb out of Kinlochleven, then the old military road through the Lairig Mòr, then forestry, a descent into Glen Nevis and the last few miles on the road into town.
- On the trail: about 7:30am to 1:30pm
Notes: On most seven or eight day itineraries this is the last day too. There are no shops or pubs between Kinlochleven and Glen Nevis, so whatever you need for the day goes in the pack before you leave.
My WHW Day 5
I started the trail through the small town first of all, along the river and out the far side of Kinlochleven, where the old signpost points you to Fort William by the Lairig.
It started with a steep climb, which was quite difficult, but after that it was just walking with open views and easy elevation. The climb goes up through woodland, and by just after 8am I was looking back down over Kinlochleven and the loch.
Most of the day is the Lairig Mòr, a long open glen on the old military road. Along the way you pass the ruins of two old farmsteads, Tigh-na-sleubhaich and Lairigmor, and not much else. The sky stayed grey for most of the morning, with a few breaks of blue later on.
After the glen the path heads into forestry, passing close to Dun Deardail, an Iron Age hill fort, before it drops down into Glen Nevis.
By midday I was dropping down towards Glen Nevis, with low cloud sitting on the hills.
The Finish
At the end, reaching the first finish line signpost did bring emotion and proper relief. My first big trail was complete, especially after failing earlier that year, when snow in April ended my last attempt at Tyndrum.
That sign marks the original end of the West Highland Way, at the roundabout by Nevis Bridge where Glen Nevis meets the town. The route was extended in 2010, so the official finish is now a bit further on in Gordon Square, in the centre of Fort William, beside the Sore Feet statue of a walker resting on a bench. That is where I sat down at 1:26pm.
Trail Notes
The climb out of Kinlochleven:
It comes first thing, on legs that have done four days already. Take it slowly. Once you’re up, the hard work of the day is done.
Food and water:
Nothing to buy until Glen Nevis, so carry the day’s food. There are streams through the Lairig Mòr, but filter or treat anything you drink from them.
Shelter:
The Lairig Mòr is open and exposed, with very little shelter apart from the ruined farmsteads. Have your waterproof somewhere you can reach it.
The road in:
The last few miles are on the road through Glen Nevis. It’s easy walking, but it’s hard on tired feet.
Camping and Staying Over
Glen Nevis: If you’re arriving late, or staying on to climb Ben Nevis, Glen Nevis has the Glen Nevis Caravan and Camping Park and the Glen Nevis youth hostel, both in Glen Nevis, a short walk from the route.
Midges:
If you’re camping in Glen Nevis in summer, come prepared. My tips are in How to Defend Against Midges While Hiking.
The Whole Way, Day by Day
- Day 1: Milngavie to beyond Rowardennan, ~45 km / 28 miles
- Day 2: Rowchoish to beyond Inverarnan, ~23 km / 14 to 15 miles
- Day 3: beyond Inverarnan to Bridge of Orchy, ~30 km / 18 to 19 miles
- Day 4: Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven, ~34 km / 21 miles
- Day 5: Kinlochleven to Fort William, ~24 km / 15 miles
Getting Home
When I was in Fort William and waiting to get back home, standing was really, really difficult. It was hard.
I got the bus, and it was easy to arrange. There is a fear that if you’re trying to just hop on, you might not get a spot at busy times, days or seasons, so try to book your travel back, even if it’s for the next ride available. Sometimes a train will be better and sometimes a bus, it depends if you’re going to Glasgow or Edinburgh. Buses to Glasgow run with Scottish Citylink, and trains with ScotRail.
For me it was the bus to Glasgow and the train to Edinburgh, and it wasn’t a chore. Sitting down after walking for days, feeling proper achieved.
Final Thoughts
Day 5 was the shortest day and, for motivation, the easiest. With the finish line as the only checkpoint left, going forward was the only way home. Reaching that first finish signpost brought emotion and proper relief, and five days after leaving Milngavie, my first big trail was done.
If you’re planning your own, start with my West Highland Way series and the gear I use.
Keep Reading
West Highland Way · 96 miles in 5 days
Milngavie to Fort William, the whole way
Five days, five posts. Start from the beginning, or see the series page.
Start at Day 1 →The seriesMy hiking gear
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